Admit it. You took one look at that cookie monster inspired image of us and mumbled “What the . . .?!?” Exactly. Don’t; we repeat: Don’t underestimate your eyebrows. If your eyes are windows to your souls, your eyebrows are the window frame – and should be treated with the same respect. We understand that not all of us were born with the same bodacious brows as Brooke Shields (think Blue Lagoon, not Lazy Boy) however, there are tricks and tips available to us all to compliment, cover and in some instances create the perfect set of eyebrows.
We acknowledge that there is more than one form of brow maintenance – our personal favorite is tweezing. Primarily – it’s difficult for tweezing to turn bad quickly; if you commit to plucking one brow at a time – any mistakes that occur can be fixed with a bit of brow filler and patience. The same cannot be said for waxing. Having been in this industry for over 15 years, I’ve seen waxing go bad quickly – as a worst case scenario – I’ve seen wax burns; as a repeated effect – droopy eyelids. Waxing – if done improperly has the potential to speed up the aging process as the elasticity in our skin only lasts for so long – think of a pony tail holder that you use every day for an entire year, vs one you use on a semi regular basis - one will hold your pony, the other will only disappoint you with a false sense of security.
Before we get too into school, let’s go over the general rules:
- Don’t pluck from the top! Only the bottom.
- Start slow and move one brow at a time. Pulling out multiple brows not only hurts like a mutha, it has the potential to damage your hair follicle.
- Always tweeze in the same direction that your brows naturally grow – go with the grain, never against.
- Like dressing for our body, we must pluck for our bone structure! Follow the instructions below to find the high point of your brow bone, and strategize the placement of your arch around it.
- Fill. ALWAYS FILL! Whether you have all of the eyebrows, or just a couple, filling your eyebrows creates a more defined / finished look. Using a brow palette close to the colour of the roots of your hair, like our favorite, Anastasia brand (available in blonde and brunette shades), dip your angle brush in the powder, then the wax and then the powder and apply in small, feather-like strokes to create the illusion of hair. Be sure to rotate the shades you’re using. Once you’re finished filling – brush them out with an eyebrow brush like the one pictured above. To prove our point, take a look at Libertee with and without filled eyebrows.
These brows haven’t been touched and are new to the tweezing world. You have two options – you can trust yourself to be the one to take their V Card, or you can leave it in the hands of a trusted professional. If you’re going with a trusted professional, we do not recommend that you take to the classifieds like Tom Cruise a la Risky Business – this is a massive moment that can’t be left to just anyone. Instead, if you’re attracted to their eyebrows, we recommend that you ask a friend or a stranger. . . where they get their eyebrows done. If you have someone you trust to do the honours, it’s a good first step to defining your shape. Everything following the first time is simply a matter of maintenance and gets less awkward with time.For example – Libertee is hosting a Brow Pop Up Shop in her studio on May 23, 2015 from 10-2pm. Email her for details at firstname.lastname@example.org She promises to be gentle.
If you do want to be the one:
- Decide if you want a thicker or more groomed look and determine how much tweezing is about to take place. We generally recommend a slow start. You can always tweeze more – untweezing is difficult.
- Refer to the diagram under the General Rules for a visual of the following cues:
- Find the beginning of your brow by taking an angle brush, and holding in line with the inner corner of your eye. Mark with an eyeliner. Any brows outside of that line, can be tweezed.
- Pivot the brush 45 degrees from where your brows will begin – this is where the height of your arch should be – mark it with a dot using an eyeliner.
- Move the brush in line with the mark identifying your arch and angle the brush about thirty degrees – place a dot at this point – this will mark the end of your eyebrows. Generally speaking the end of your eyebrows should be in line with the outer corner of your eye.
- If you’re still a bit nervous about popping said cherry – there’s a way to make it easier on yourself. We highly recommend you purchase the Anastasia Brow Palette (available in both blonde and brunette shades) – not only does this palette contain an array of colours and wax, perfect for filling your brows, it also comes with a set of stencils. Go through the stencils, and find one that closely fits with the points you have set out and use a white colored eyeliner to draw on the shape. Remove the stencil and tweeze accordingly – easy as pie, and an excellent cue for first timers!
- Once you’ve filled, use the brush in an upward motion over your brows to the seal the deal on the natural look.
The High School Floozies and the
We knew those girls. One of them was fast and loose with the tweezers, and the other waited for the day she would need to tweeze and it just never came. Ironically, the rules for the High School Floozies, and the Underdevelopers are the same. It’s like Molly Ringwald in the Breakfast Club, and Molly Ringwald in Pretty in Pink can benefit from the same advice. Take a look at Colleen, a classic, blonde brow, underdeveloper.
To the High School Floozies: we’re giving it to you straight: there is the potential that years of continued tweezing may have caused irreparable damages – meaning that the hairs, no matter the amount of prayer or cursing, just won’t grow anymore. But. There’s only one way to find out: the grow-out process. It might be awkward, and a tad uncomfortable, but if you still have brows available in strategic places, you’ll be better off. During the grow out process, feel free to pluck brows that are obviously out there If it’s been six weeks, and still no brows, this is where Sephora comes in. (ONE SEC. . .)
To the Underdevelopers: the fact of the matter is – some girls have ‘em, and some girls don’t. And no amount of pulling or praying is going to change that. Brows that are overly blonde will also fall into this category.
Whether or not you were blessed with fruitful, brunette follicles – a rad set of window frames is still completely feasible.
Once again, this is where Sephora comes in.
- Visit Sephora and purchase a palette of brow shadows and an eyebrow wax, like the Anastasia palette we’ve recommended. Additionally, if you don’t already have a good quality angle brush, and a brow brush, you’ll need those too.
- Much like the virgin does in determining their brow shape based on their brow structure so will you. Refer to the visual under General Rules for the following cues:
- Find the beginning of your brow by taking an angle brush, and holding in line with the inner corner of your eye.
- Pivot the brush 45 degrees from where your brows will begin – this is where the height of your arch should be – mark it with a dot using a light coloured eyeliner
- Move the brush in line with the mark identifying your arch and angle the brush about thirty degrees – place a dot at this point – this will mark the end of your eyebrows.
- Using the angle brush, and a variety of the shadow shades, begin to fill your brows using strokes that look about the length of an eyebrow. If you’re not quite confident with the actual shape, again, we highly recommend you purchase the Anastasia Brow Palette – not only does this palette contain an array of colours and wax, perfect for filling your brows, it also comes with a set of stencils. Go through the stencils, and find one that closely fits with the points you have set out. Hold the stencil in place as you use the lightest shade to fill the shape. Go over the shape using a variety of shades to create a natural looking brow.
- Once you’ve finished filling – use the brush in an upward motion to seal the deal on the natural look.
Well done, class!
Get your Anastasia Eye brow pallet at Sephora
To schedule an appointment to revamp your brow reputation book with Libertee at her Pop up shop taking place at her studio on May 23rd from 10am-2pm.
Email for appointments